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    Item #: AUD1553
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    Note: the photos below show an RNFBL with a modified washout base, which we slit through one of the 2 mm guide pin slots in order to clamp it to the main shaft (this by using a 30 mm long socket head bolt vs. 15 mm through one of the washout arms). The purpose of this was to experiment with advancing (or retarding) the timing of the inner star of the swashplate relative to the rotor head.

    Unnecessary modification - follow instructions instead

    - Unnecessary clamp-on modification of the washout base - follow instructions instead

    As it turned out, the stock alignment of the washout base is perfect, which means the clamp-on mod was unnecessary. These instructions reflect a bolt-on method of accomplishing the RNFBL (Red Neck Flybarless) conversion using 25 mm long M2 bolts.

    Before and after the modification of the washout arms.

    - Before and after the modification of the washout arms.

    Introduction

    With the stock flybar setup, the washout hub assembly slides up and down guided by the pair of 2mm pins on the rotor head adapter. Of course, the washout arms are what drives the inner star of the swashplate. In removing the flybar assembly and replacing it with an FBL controller (electronics replacing mechanical components), we still need to drive the inner star of the swashplate. We accomplish this by modifying the washout arms, inverting the washout base, and bolting it to the bottom of the rotor hub adapter with a pair of M2x25 Allen Head bolts (replacing the 2 mm guide pins). The end result is a very sano FBL set up, which flies great and by virtue of the fact we're modifying stock parts, cost virtually nothing. It's an easy and fun mod, which takes less than 30 minutes from start to finish.

    Clean and simple, the RNFBL is easy and flies great

    - Clean and simple, this RNFBL is easy to do, flies fantastic, and costs nearly nothing.

    Step 1 - modifying the washout arms

    Begin by resizing the middle hole in the washout arm with a 5/64" drill bit so the washout links can be attached using the stock washout link pins. Next, either leave the short side of the washout arm alone, or trim it off - your druthers. On the long side, trim off about 4-5 mm from the end of the AUD1015-2 Washout Arm, thus removing the material for the 3rd hole, which would otherwise interfere with the movement of the washout link. Finally, dress the end of the arm to your aestheic standards with a Dremel and a sanding drum (use the slowest speed).

    Resize the hole with a 5/64" drill bit, then trim 4-5 mm off the end and dress to your aesthetic standards.

    - Resize the middle hole with a 5/64" drill bit, then trim off the 3rd hole, and dress the edge.

    The reconfigured washout arm - with washout link re-attached - looks like this - trimmed to the second hole. The reconfigured washout arm ready to be bolted back onto the washout base.

    - The reconfigured washout arm ready to be bolted back onto the washout base.

    Step 2 - reconfiguring the washout base

    Next, we're going to reconfigure the washout base by flipping it upside down. Then we'll attach it to the rotor hub adapter with a pair of 25 mm long M2 bolts.

    Replace the M2 guide pins with AUD2025AH through inverted AUD0004-2 and snug the set screws

    - Replace the M2 guide pins with AUD2025AH through inverted AUD0004-2 and snug the set screws

    First, undo the set screws, which secure the 2 mm guide pins within the AUD0054 Rotor Hub Adapter and remove the pins. Next, using a pair of AUD2025AH bolts secure the washout base to the bottom of the rotor hub adapter. Remember, for correct vertical alignment, we'll be inverting the washout base. Finally, instead of CA or threadlocker, snug the set screws to locks the M2 bolts within the rotor hub adapter (as if they were the guide pins).

    Step 3 - installation and linkages

    Next, attach the AUD0055-2 Seesaw arms (using threadlocker) into the threaded holes in the AUD0005 Center Hub as shown below.

    Leave about 2.5 mm between the short links

    - Leave about 2.5 mm showing between the short links of the pushrod

    Note the orientation of the washout hub, washout arms, and washout links in the photo below. Leave about 20 mm showing between the ball link ends for the pushrod connecting the inner star of the swashplate and the long side of the seesaw arms. Connect the link to the long side of the washout arms

    - Reinstall the washout link on the long side of the washout arm - leave about 20 mm of rod showing between the links.

    Full positive pitch brings the swashplate downward as usual

    - Full positive pitch moves the swashplate downward, as usual.

    Up close and personal, the RNFBL works great

    - A tad of positive delta delivers great Pantera handling - no need to extend the ball on the grip.

    RNFBL stands for Red-Neck-FlyBar-Less, thus christened by a wit (whose name escapes me) the instant he saw the prototype. We weren't offended . . . and the name stuck! Anyway, the end results is a superb FBL conversion, which flies great. By the way, while I am sure someone, somewhere, will look down their nose at this nifty little FBL-conversion, we believe it flies every bit as good as any aftermarket FBL rotor head available (regardless of price), which means you only feel a difference in your wallet, not in the air.

    Finally, if you need the long M2 bolts and additional washout arms, here are the links;

    AUD2025AH Allen Head Bolt (2-pack) https://www.promodeler.com/AUD2025AH

    AUD1015-2 Washout Arm Set, Pantera https://www.promodeler.com/AUD1015-2